AfterMarketNews Auto Care Pro AutoProJobs Auto-Video.com Brake&Frontend BodyShopBusiness Counterman EngineBuilder Fleet Equipment ImportCar Motorcycle & Powersports News Servicio Automotriz Shop Owner Tire Review Tech Shop Tomorrow's Tech Underhood Service

Inside The Bosch Xperience Mobile Technician Training

Robert Bosch LLC has been bringing technician training straight to the shop this year with its Bosch Xperience mobile tour, and when it rolled into The Swedish Solution in Orange Village, Ohio, a team of editors from Babcox Media had to check it out. In...

Read more...

Oklahoma Shops Organize To Join Auto Care Association

The auto shops in Tulsa, Okla., are organizing an effort to all join the Automotive Service Association in order to improve the overall service levels of the city. ABC Channel 8 in Tulsa, Okla., has the details: Randy Calley of Same Day Auto Repair...

Read more...

Service Adviser Pay Program Tips That Work

If you are looking to drive up your profits, you need to ensure you have service advisers that have the right attitude, aptitude and ethics. They will need to have the natural talent to sell, they will need to be well trained, and they will need to have...

Read more...

Mercedes-Benz: Installation guidelines for Smart Car front wheel bearing

The typical solution for replacing the front wheel hub on a 2008-‘13 Mercedes-Benz Smart Car is a front wheel hub assembly, including a front wheel hub and knuckle. However, with a wheel hub-only ­solution for the Mercedes Smart Car, like the one offered...

Read more...

Kia: Uncovering Unperformed Maintenance

While some vehicle problems will motivate the customer to make an appointment, an equal amount of Kia repair opportunities will be discovered as the vehicle is being serviced. If you’re not already doing so, always encourage your customers to keep...

Read more...

The Evolving Oil Change Market

The only constant in the oil change business is change itself, especially if you’re trying to maintain an inventory of engine oil for all makes and models of vehicles. Since Volkswagen began ­requiring application-specific engine oil in the mid-1990s,...

Read more...

Speed Sensor Diagnostics: The 'If’s' of Sensors and Speed Explained

If all of the wheel speed sensors are generating a speed signal, and they all agree, the wheel speed sensor (WSS) is not an issue, but something else might be, possibly an intermittent wiring fault in one of the WSS circuits. If one of the WSS...

Read more...

What is Brake Noise? The Basics of Diagnosing NVH

What does your shop do when a brake noise complaint enters the service bays? Does it end up hurting productivity for the rest of the day as a technician randomly applies lubes, pastes and sprays to the brake system hoping that the problem will be...

Read more...

How Does a Dual Clutch Transmission Work?

Dual clutch transmissions are like ­having two manual transmissions shifting together while being controlled like an automatic transmission. This is the transmission of the future because it is lighter than an automatic and is just as ­efficient...

Read more...

Tell Us Your Top 5 Tools and Win!

Send in your list of your five favorite tools and equipment that help you most in the shop, and you could be chosen to win a $25 gift card for Bass Pro Shops. From scan tools to flashlights, impact wrenches to on-car brake lathes or computer systems...

Read more...

Pulling Codes: Good Guys Vs. Bad Guys

The Story of U0100 This article will document Code U0100 — Lost Communication with the ECM/PCM. In the world of automotive module-to-module communication, it can mimic a good guy/bad guy situation — the good guy has made an attempt to communicate...

Read more...

Snap-on Franchisee Conference Introduces Latest Tool & Equipment Innovations

The Snap-on Tools Franchisee Conference (SFC), held in Orlando, FL, played host to more than 8,000 registered attendees this past weekend; including principals representing more than 3,000 North American routes as well as their families and guests. The...

Read more...

Home Cooling Right On the Mark: Lining Up Timing Belt Service for First-Generation Kias

Print Print Email Email

This month, we’re going to take a look at timing belt replacement on the increasingly popular Kia line of vehicles. Kia has made strong inroads into the market by offering high-quality vehicles at an affordable price. As underhood car techs, we’re prepared to handle any of these cars: You have the required skills and, with service information that is readily available, there’s no reason you shouldn’t feel comfortable under the hood.

We find most belt replacements are done as a recommended service at 90,000 miles. This is a good opportunity to suggest additional service that is due at the same mileage. At a minimum, any accessory drive belts should be replaced, and it’s also a good idea to suggest water pump replacement at the same time. Even if the pump looks good now, there’s a good chance it won’t last another 90,000 miles. Plus, it’s not a hard sell once the customer is made aware of the labor costs and inconvenience involved in replacing the pump at a later date. The same can be said for camshaft and crank seals; any sign of leakage should initiate replacement.

For timing belt replacement procedures, we’ll take a look at the popular Sportage model first, and then the more complex Sedona twin-cam V6.

Kia Sportage
Introduced in 1995, the first-generation Sportage was Kia’s entry in the hot mini sport-utility segment. The vehicle was powered by a 2.0L inline, 4-cylinder engine, providing 130 hp. Interestingly, in 1997, the Sportage adopted the automobile industry’s first knee airbag.

Discontinued in 2002, the Sportage re-appeared in 2005 (second-generation) and was available with the 4-cylinder powerplant, or a more powerful 2.7L V6 engine rated at 172 hp.

Sportage Timing Service Steps
Most of these little SUVs powered by a willing 2.0L twin-cam engine have some Mazda roots. And, being mounted inline, provides good access after disconnecting the battery.

  1. Remove the fresh air intake duct from the radiator.

  2. Next remove the shroud bolts to gain access to the clutch fan retaining nuts.

  3. Remove the fan and shroud together.

  4. Loosen the alternator drive belts and remove the water pump pulley and belts.

  5. From under the car, loosen and remove the A/C and power steering belt.

  6. Remove the upper belt cover.

  7. Now is a good time to align your timing marks. It’s always a good idea to confirm where the marks are before teardown. On the intake side, the “I” mark should be lined up with the seal plate mark. The exhaust side uses an “E” to identify the mark.

  8. Two more bolts will remove the lower cover, allowing you to confirm that the mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley is in line with the mark on the oil pump.

  9. Loosen the tensioner bolt and move the tensioner outward to allow for removal of the belt.

    Note: Be careful not to over-extend the tensioner spring while moving it outward. Closely look at the tensioner spring for distortion or stretching; if in doubt, replace it.

  10. With the belt removed, spin the tensioner pulley, listening for loud bearings, and visually inspect its condition.

  11. Don’t wash the tensioner in solvent. Instead, wipe it down with a clean rag so any lubrication in the bearing stays in place. If there is any sign of leakage at the shaft seals or if a water pump is going to be replaced, now is the time to take care of those tasks.

  12. After confirming the timing marks are aligned, install the new belt, putting slack on the tensioner side.

  13. Loosen the tensioner bolt and turn the crankshaft two revolutions in the proper (clockwise) direction to reconfirm mark alignment. If all is well, continue to turn the crank until the S mark on the exhaust cam is in line with the reference mark on seal plate. See Figure 1.

  14. Loosen the tensioner bolt, allowing the spring to set the proper tension. Two more revolutions bring the timing marks back in line.

  15. Check for 0.030-0.033” of belt deflection between the cam pulleys with 22 lbs. of pressure.

  16. Reinstall the covers and components that were removed, and you’re ready to put the car back into service.

One other note: While the service information systems declare the 2.0L to be an “interference engine,” and that it’s possible that valve damage could occur in the event of a broken belt, experience shows that it isn’t always the case. It’s well-worth your time — and the customer’s money — to install a belt to confirm any suspected damage. More often than not, you’ll be OK.

Kia Sedona
The first generation of the Sedona (1999-2005) was developed to compete with the minivan segment of Toyota Sienna, Honda Odyssey and the Chrysler minivans. It was delivered with a 3.5L V6 engine (195 hp) and was mated to a 5-speed automatic transmission.

The second generation Sedona (2006 to the present) has been upgraded with a 3.8L V6 (244 hp) engine.

Sedona Timing Service Steps
As the Kia line progressed, things didn’t stay as simple as the Sportage. The Sedona, Kia’s version of the ever-popular minivan, is powered by a 4-valve twin-cam V6, so it’s no surprise that belt replacement will be more complex and require some additional precautions.

  1. Start by removing the engine cover, drive belt, idler and tension pulley, as well as the power steering pulley.

  2. Now you can remove the timing belt covers. While supporting the engine with either an engine support tool or a jack under the oil pan, and being careful not to distort the pan, remove the right-side engine mount.

  3. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the timing mark, positioning the No. 1 cylinder’s piston in the TDC position (compression stroke).

  4. At this time, the timing marks of the camshaft sprocket and cylinder head cover should coincide with each other.

  5. Now you can remove the auto tensioner unit and the timing belt.

    Note: Be sure the tensioner arm moves freely and all the pulleys spin free without noise. As with the Sportage, avoid cleaning the pulleys in any solvent. Any sign of binding in the tensioner arm should be dealt with now to ensure the auto tensioner will do its job for another 90,000 miles.

  6. Using a vice, slowly push in the plunger on the automatic tensioner, allowing you to install the locking (set) pin. Be sure the plunger retracts smoothly and shows no signs of leakage; if in doubt, replace it.

  7. With the No. 1 cylinder still at TDC, reinstall the tensioner and timing belt, maintaining the proper belt tension between each shaft in this order:

    • crankshaft sprocket

    • idler pulley

    • left bank exhaust camshaft sprocket

    • left bank intake camshaft sprocket

    • water pump pulley

    • right bank intake camshaft sprocket

    • right bank exhaust camshaft sprocket

    • tensioner pulley.

  8. In the event a camshaft sprocket rotates excessively, don’t rotate it more than necessary to align the timing mark.

  9. When realigning the timing marks, turn the cam in the opposite direction it rotated. If one sprocket is fixed at the No. 1 compression TDC position (on the mark) and the other sprocket is rotated one revolution clockwise or counterclockwise, the intake and exhaust valve might contact each other, resulting in bent valves.

  10. After installing the timing belt, put counterclockwise pressure on the right (firewall) side exhaust cam, tensioning the belt, and make sure all the timing marks are still lined up. If so, snug down the center bolt of the tensioner as you prepare to adjust the tension.

  11. This engine requires an initial mechanical tension adjustment to keep the hydraulic tensioner in its operating range. To make the mechanical adjustment with the set pin in place, rotate the crankshaft 1/4-turn counterclockwise, and then return it to TDC by turning it clockwise. Using a two-pin tensioner pulley socket and a beam-type torque wrench, push down to exert 50 kg-cm of tension on the pulley, while maintaining the tension. Tighten the center bolt to 32 to 40 ft.-lbs.

  12. To check the adjustment, remove the auto tensioner-locking pin and rotate the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation (clockwise), returning the engine to No. 1 TDC. Wait 5 minutes and confirm that the auto tensioner rod is protruding 3.8 to 4.5 mm (0.150-0.175”). This is also a good time to double-check that the timing marks are lined up.

  13. Reinstall the covers and feel good about a job well done.


Log On

When it comes to service information, Kia is at the top of the list. This is one company that wants us to have the information we need to take care of their customers’ vehicles. By now, you all should have Internet access at the shop, so go to www.kiatechinfo.com and register to gain access to the carmaker’s free technical website. Take some time to look around at what’s available. Like any tool, you have to learn to use it — but it’s certainly time well spent. Don’t overlook the “community” section, which is loaded with good information.

The following two tabs change content below.

Bob Dowie

Bob Dowie has been in the automotive service business for 43 years, and his shop, Village Auto Works in Chester, NY, specializes in Honda, Toyota, Mazda and Nissan repair. Dowie owns and runs a Honda Civic and Nissan Sentra SER in SCCA GT Lite Class racing, and gets his technicians ­involved in various aspects of the sport.
  • krempep

    Setting the timing is pretty straight forward. Line up the timing mark on the crankshaft, set the belt and brace it from the bottom with a piece of Styrofoam or cardboard. Wrap the belt around the upper bearing and front outer cam, adjust the timing marks and pull belt tight continue on to the 2nd front cam, hold this in place with a clip or clothes pin. The belt goes down around the water pump and up the rear cam. Using a 17mm wrench, turn the cam to the timing mark, wrap the belt and tightly to the timing mark, holding both the belt and cam in place. (It helps if you can get a helper). Next, do the same with the far rear cam, align it to the timing mark and wrap the belt around it. Pull the belt from the bottom to hold the cams and belt in place. Place a clip or clamp on the bottom of the back cam with belt to hold it in place. Release the belt and cam and check your timing marks, it should hold itself. Next, wrap the belt around the bottom adjustment bearing. Adjust the bearing with a needle nose pliers and a 14mm socket, rotate the adjuster with the pliers to tighten the belt, hold it tightly while tightening the center bolt. Belt and bolt should be snug, repeat if necessary. Install the auto adjuster (pin in) beneath the adjustment bearing. Remove the clips from the cams. Next, rotate the crankshaft a couple of turns to insure the cams and pistons don’t interfere with each other. Rotate the crankshaft to its timing mark and recheck the timing mark on each of the cams. If everything looks in order, pull the pin on the auto adjuster, put the lower cover on and the harmonic balancer, inside, outside belts and everything else back together.

Latest articles from our other sites:

Fuel Injector Replacement Tip: Watch For Heat Soak

Fuel injectors play a big role in today's vehicles, which emphasize precision and timing in order to improve fuel economy and reduce emissions. If those fuel injectors are clogged or out of whack,...More

Clutch Repairs Made Easy: Making Use of Something We Normally Throw Away

Clutch replacement is a job that normally takes a good bit of time, and we want the job to go right the first time. Whether it’s a 4-wheel drive Ford F-450 or a Chevrolet Cobalt, we don’t want...More

Nissan Group sees 11 percent increase in July

Nissan Group announced total U.S. sales for July 2014 of 121,452 units, an increase of 11.4 percent over the prior-year and a July record. Nissan highlights: Nissan Division set a July record with...More

Fiat 500 six-speed automatic transmission available to try at Abarth Track Experience

With the addition of three new stops on the 2014 schedule, Fiat 500 Abarth owners will now have more opportunities to develop their driving skills in the one-day Abarth Track Experience. The Fiat...More

Clutch Repairs Made Easy: Making Use of Something We Normally Throw Away

Clutch replacement is a job that normally takes a good bit of time, and we want the job to go right the first time. Whether it’s a 4-wheel drive Ford F-450 or a Chevrolet Cobalt, we don’t want...More

Custom Wheels and TPMS: What Are Your Options?

Selling, mounting and balancing custom wheels can be a profitable business, but what about tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS) sensors? According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration...More

Snap-on Offers Top 14.2 Reasons To Upgrade To Latest Diagnostic Software Release

Keeping the diagnostic tools up-to-date is critical, because without the latest vehicle coverage, professional technicians simply cannot service as many vehicles in a day. Snap-on Software Upgrade 14.2...More

Tell Us Your Top 5 Tools and Win!

Send in your list of your five favorite tools and equipment that help you most in the shop, and you could be chosen to win a $25 gift card for Bass Pro Shops. From scan tools to flashlights, impact...More