CC:
Today we’re replacing belts and hoses on this 2013 F150 5.0 liter. Installation may vary based on application.
The first step is inspection of the belt drive system. The multi rib belt on this application has been on the vehicle more than 100,000 miles. While the belt is not cracked or frayed, the wear to the ribs is significant enough that the belt is slipping because the belt is bottomed out in the grooves. To fully examine the full length of the belt, you may have to remove it from the vehicle. To remove the belt, place a three eighth drive ratchet in the arm of the tensioner. Hold down on the tensioner to relax the belt. Pull the old belt off the pullies for examination with the belt off. Inspect the idler pullies to make sure they turn smoothly. Also, the tensioner should move without any binding. To install the new belt, you’ll need to know how it is routed. This information can sometimes be found on the fan shroud or radiator support. It can also be found in the service information. If you do not have access, take a picture of the routing of the old belt. Place the new belt on the pulleys. When you get to the tensioner, pull the tensioner down and put the belt around the pulley and release. Run the engine for 20 seconds to allow the belt to settle into the grooves. Turn the engine off and inspect the belt to make sure the belt is properly aligned to the pulleys on the belt drive system.
Replacing aging coolant hoses is an important aspect of proper vehicle maintenance, and there’s often more than meets the eye when it comes time to do the job. Proper hose installation begins during the process of removal. The first step with the engine cold is to carefully drain and catch the coolant so it can be recycled or properly disposed of. Next is hose removal. Rubber hoses are clamped at each end, but modular hoses feature formed plastic ends with a quick release type of attachment. The ends have an O-ring inside, which seals against the water neck. When removing this type of end, once you have unseated the retaining clip, gently wiggle and pull to remove the hose. Most of these are indexed with a locating tab so you won’t be able to twist them. Once the clamps have been removed, gently twist the hose to see if it breaks free from the water neck.
If not, always use a specific hose removal tool to free it. Don’t cut the hoses with a knife and don’t use a regular pick. These tools can gouge or damage a water neck resulting in leaks. Using excessive force to pull a hose off can fatigue components, especially plastic ones. So always be sure to loosen the hose first, then twist and gently pull to remove it. Next, thoroughly clean and inspect the water necks. If they’re metal, be sure to remove any rust or corrosion. And severe pitting is a sign that it should be replaced. Distortion or cracks on a plastic water neck are signs of fatigue and they should be replaced. Dural aosis are designed to specific OE configurations and meet or exceed OE specifications. They’re resistant to electrochemical degradations. They’re compatible with most coolants, and they’re available for a wide selection of the most popular makes and models.
When installing a new hose, always use constant tension clamps when originally equipped. Not only do these clamps prevent under or over tightening, which can damage or distort plastic water necks, but they also exert an even force around the circumference of the hose during expansion and contraction, which prevents leaks and water neck distortion. If worm style clamps are used, always replace them with new to ensure they draw an even tension on the hose. When tightening, in the case of a modular hose with a quick release attachment, use a silicone grease to lightly lubricate the seal for a positive installation. Many modular hoses such as these durast hoses come with grease already applied to the O-ring. Why? Because durast hoses are engineered to perform.
This video is sponsored by JKF Americas.
