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Tech Feature: Servicing Ford's 3.0L Engine

July 14, 2009
The 3.0L Duratec V6 was introduced in 1996 to replace the aging 3.8L V6 in the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. Unlike its conventional pushrod predecessor, the 3.0L V6 has dual overhead cams, four valves per cylinder and an aluminum block with cast-iron cylinder liners.
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The 3.0L Duratec V6 was introduced in 1996 to replace the aging 3.8L V6 in the Ford Taurus and Mercury Sable. Unlike its conventional pushrod predecessor, the 3.0L V6 has dual overhead cams, four valves per cylinder and an aluminum block with cast-iron cylinder liners.

It is essentially a larger version of the 2.5L Duratec 60° V6 that was introduced in the 1994 Ford Contour and Jaguar X-Type. Both engines have the same 79.5 mm stroke crankshaft, but the 3.0L engine has larger cylinder bores (89 mm versus 82.4 mm in the 2.5L Duratec).

The 3.0L Duratec engine has Sequential Multiport Fuel Injection (SFI), and an upper and lower intake manifold with electronically controlled Intake Manifold Runner Control (IMRC) that varies intake air velocity for improved low-end torque, and a single coil distributorless ignition system (DIS) that fires two spark plugs simultaneously (waster spark).

The coil is mounted on the front valve cover, and the firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6. The plugs are gapped at 1.3-1.4 mm (0.052-0.56”).

The dual overhead cams on the Duratec engine are chain driven, so there’s no timing belt to replace.
Over the years, this engine has undergone continual evolution and has been produced in several variations, including:
• A 208 horsepower version with roller finger followers for the Taurus and Sable, and the 2001 and later Ford Escape and Mazda Tribute.

• A more powerful 232 hp version for the 2000-’05 Lincoln LS, Jaguar AJ30 and S-Type, Mazda 6 and MPV, and 2005 Ford Five Hundred, Mercury Montego and Ford Freestyle with direct-acting mechanical bucket tappets.

• A Variable Valve Timing (VVT) with electronic throttle control for the 2003-’06 Lincoln LS, 2003-’06 Jaguar X-Type applications, 2006 Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan and Lincoln Zephyr, and 2009 Ford Escape. On the 2009 Fusion, a new type of VVT system called “Cam Torque Actuated” (CTA) is used to advance cam timing. The cam phaser generates its own internal pressure rather than relying on oil pump pressure to move the cams. The result is more advance (47°) and better fuel economy.

Though the 3.0L Duratec V6 has had a relatively long production run, its successor is the larger displacement 265 hp 3.5L Duratec V6, which powers the 2007 Ford Edge, Lincoln MKX and MKZ, and 2008 and later Taurus and Sable, and 2009 Ford Flex. An even larger 275 hp 3.7L Duratec V6 with a 95.5 mm bore is used in the 2008 Mazda CX-9 and Lincoln MKS, and 2009 Mazda 6. Ford says it will continue making the 3.0L V6 for several more years with additional improvements to reduce emissions and improve fuel economy.

3.0L Variants
The first-generation 3.0L Duratec blocks produced from 1996 through 1998 can be identified by the “F5DE” casting number on the engine block. In 1999, Ford changed to a slightly different casting (XW4E) which has different coolant passages on the right side that require a different head gasket. Install an old style head gasket on this  engine and it will leak coolant.

The following year, Ford revised the block casting slightly and reduced the size of the knock sensor threads from 12 mm to 8 mm. Other than that, the 1999 and newer blocks are interchangeable. The 2000-’04 blocks use casting number XW4E-BA.

The cast iron liners in the aluminum block can be bored to oversize if the cylinders are worn or tapered. Flat-top pistons with a slight dome are used without valve reliefs in the older 3.0L Duratec engines that do not have variable valve timing, but pistons with four valve reliefs are required for additional valve clearance in the newer versions with VVT. The compression ratio is the same, so the newer pistons can be used in the older applications.

All the Duratec engines use powder metal connecting rods with cracked (fracture-split) caps. Rod lengths and weights are all the same, and can be interchanged from one year to the next. If the big end of the rod is worn or stretched, though, the rod has to be replaced because cracked caps cannot be ground to resize the bearing opening.

The most variation in these engines is found in the cylinder heads and front timing cover. The right and left heads are different on all the engines, and are identified by different part numbers. So if you need to replace a head, make sure you get correct side.

The heads on the early 1996-’98 engines have six round intake ports and have a casting number F5DE. The 1999 model year heads (F7DE) also have six round intake ports, but the right head has a protrusion to cover an oiling port in the block (which is used in later engines to pressurize the variable valve timing system).

In 2000, the design of the heads changed significantly, going to three oval intake ports. The 2000 castings are YF1E for the right head, and YL8E for the left head.

In 2001, the heads changed again when Ford moved the water pump from the right front side of the engine (as viewed from the front) to the left side. This also required a change in the location of the serpentine belt tensioner from the left side of the timing cover to the right side (as viewed from the front).

The 2000-’01 Lincoln and Jaguar 3.0L Duratec engines use a slightly different head casting (XW4E). In 2002, the head castings numbers changed (1X4E) on these engines, but the heads appear to be identical.

The front timing cover on the 3.0L Duratec has undergone various changes to accommodate changes in the valvetrain. From 1996 to 2000, the front covers on Taurus/Sable models have a fitting at the top right for the camshaft position sensor, and a fitting at the lower left next to the crank for the crank position sensor. The belt tensioner is located on the left side of the cover. In 2001, Ford changed the location of the belt tensioner from the left side of the cover to the right to facilitate the relocation of the water pump.

If you have a noisy serpentine belt on one of these engines, be sure to check the serpentine belt tensioner as a weak spring may be allowing the belt to slip. And, if you replace the belt on high-mileage engines, it’s a good idea to replace the tensioner, too.

On 2001-’04 Escape/Tribute engines, the crank  sensor is relocated to the right side of the crank (as viewed from the front). On the 2000-’03 Lincoln/Jaguar engines, the crank sensor is to the left of the crank, and it is a different sensor with a different angled exciter ring on the crank.

On the 2003-’06 Lincoln and 2003-’04 Jaguar engines with VVT, the front timing cover mounts two camshaft position  sensors (one for each intake cam).

Ford has used two basic camshaft variations in the 3.0L Duratec. The early style cams were all the same from 1996 through 2000. But mid-year 2000, Ford changed from a 36-tooth cam sprocket to a 42-tooth gear. The early and late cam gears with different numbers of teeth are not interchangeable.

Timing Chain Service
If you have to remove or replace a cylinder head for any reason, or replace the timing chain on a 3.0L Duratec, it can be a bit of a challenge because Ford doesn’t provide a Top Dead Center (TDC) timing reference mark on the crankshaft. You have to use a dial indicator to find the TDC position of the number one cylinder to make sure the crank and camshafts are all properly aligned.

Ford says that when the crankshaft keyway is positioned at roughly the 11 o’clock position, the number one cylinder should be at TDC.

Before you can remove the timing chain, the front cover has to come off the engine. Then you have to remove the crank sensor pulse wheel. Note the sensor wheel’s location before you remove it.

Rotating the crank until the keyway is at the 3 o’clock position will move the right cylinder head camshafts to the neutral position. The timing mark on the intake cam should be pointing to the right when viewed from the front, and the timing mark on the exhaust cam should be pointing straight up if both cams are in the correct position.

You can now remove the chain tensioner arm, chain guide and right timing chain.

To remove the left timing chain, rotate the crank clockwise 600° (1-2/3rds turn) until the keyway is again at the 11 o’clock position. This will position the left cylinder head cams in the neutral position. This time, the timing mark on the intake cam should be pointing to the left when viewed from the front, and the mark on the exhaust cam should be pointing straight up. As before, you can now remove the chain tensioner arm, chain guide and left timing chain.

Before you can reinstall the timing chains, you need to compress the left and right chain tensioners in a vice. Compress the piston until it is fully bottomed, then temporarily lock it in place with a pin or paper clip.

If the replacement timing chain does not have timing marks for aligning with the cam gears, you’ll have to mark the left and right side chains. Start with the left chain, and mark one link as the starting crankshaft timing mark. Then count 29 links and make a second mark (for the exhaust cam). Continue counting to link number 42 and make a third mark (for the intake cam). The second and third marks should align with the timing marks on the intake and exhaust cams when the chain is slipped into place. The chain tensioner and arm can now be installed.

Next, you do the same procedure for the right cam. But first, you need to rotate the crankshaft 120° clockwise so the crankshaft keyway is at the 3 o’clock position. Mark the right timing chain and install it the same as before.
Once both chains are in place, remove the locking pin or paper clip from the left and right chain tensioners.

Rotate the crankshaft 120° counterclockwise so the keyway is back at the 11 o’clock position and number one piston is at TDC. Check to make sure all the timing marks are aligned as shown in the illustration on page 26.

There should be 12 chain links between the right and left intake and exhaust cam sprocket marks, 27 chain links between the cam gears and crank on the non-tensioned side of each chain, and 30 links between the cam gears and crank on the tensioned side of each chain.

Driveability Issues
If the check engine light is on and you find a code P1518, it means the intake manifold runner control (IMRC) system has a problem. Most likely, the runner control is stuck in the open position. Sludge can build up in the IMRC causing it to stick. Ford also offers a PCM reprogramming fix in TSB 02-15-3 that causes the IMRC to cycle at speeds over 40 mph so sludge doesn’t build up on the runner plates.

If you run into an engine in a 1996-’98 Taurus or Sable that cranks and has spark, but won’t start, the fault may be a dead fuel pump because of shorted wiring. TSB 98-25-1 covers the installation of protective plastic tubing on the fuel pump wires to prevent chaffing on these vehicles.

Hard starting and long cranking times on 1996-’98 Taurus and Sable may be caused by bad fuel, wet spark plug wires or a sticking idle air control valve. TSB 98-21-12 covers the diagnosis of this condition, and TSB 97-9-5 covers replacing the IAC valve.

P0171 and P0174 lean codes are common faults on many Ford, including the 3.0L Duratec. The lean fuel condition is often caused by a dirty mass airflow sensor, vacuum leaks in the intake manifold or vacuum connections, or a defective DPFE sensor. The fix may require cleaning or replacing the MAF sensor, or using a smoke machine to find elusive vacuum leaks in the intake plumbing.

If you find a 1996-2003 Taurus or Sable with a rolling idle or surge problem, poor fuel economy, or codes P1336, P1309 or P0340, the cause may be a misaligned camshaft position sensor. TSB 02-22-1 covers diagnosis of the cam sensor and aligning the cam sensor with a special installation tool.

Cooling System Service
One common problem we’ve seen in high-mileage Taurus/Sable vehicles with the Duratec engine is coolant contamination caused by rust and corrosion in the coolant pipes that snake around the engine. This is often the result of coolant neglect. Cleaning and flushing the system can get rid of the gunk, but it won’t stop the corrosion inside the steel pipes. Replacing the pipes is recommended to halt the rusting problem.

Electrolysis that eats through the heater core also can be caused by missing, loose or broken engine ground straps. You can use a voltmeter to check for electrolysis in the coolant. Remove both cables from the battery, then touch the negative test lead to the negative battery post, and the positive lead to the coolant in the radiator or coolant reservoir.

A reading of more than 0.4 volts indicates trouble. Check the engine ground straps. Ford says not to ground the heater core as this will make the electrolysis problem worse. Be sure to drain and refill the cooling system with new coolant.

Submit a Comment   Comments (100)
Comment by:
David
9/15/2011
10:17 AM
97 sable think the screen in the oil pan is clogged but not sure where to find screen to check any ideas?
Comment by:
Debby
9/10/2011
3:44 PM
I have a 2002 Taurus with oil in the coolant. Do all 2002's have an oil cooling line running through the radiator?
Comment by:
geno
9/8/2011
8:15 PM
Where is trans range sensor located on ford contour 2.5l sfi dohc 6cyl? Trouble code PO708
Comment by:
kellylevey
9/7/2011
1:18 PM
2003 ford taurus whole upper plenum and intake full of coolant but not in oil. replaced intake gaskets, upper and lower and valve cover gaskets and new plugs. now it wont turn over. cranks, has spark and is getting fuel, but wont kick over, sounds like theres no combustion. any suggestions? had same problem after doing same job on pontiac firebird, spark, fuel and yet wouldnt kick over. could it b a computer thing?
Comment by:
Chris K.
9/1/2011
11:48 AM
I have a 99 Ranger 3.0 liter I have replaced the water pump, thermostat, raidiator, heater hoses, and I still cant drive it over 3 miles without it running hot. When it runs hot it fills the overflow reservoir to the top and also sprays out of the top. There isnt any water in the oil. Just wandering if you could tell me what it might be. Thanks
Comment by:
Jag Boy
8/30/2011
7:44 PM
Can a throttle position sensor from a Lincon LS be used on a Jaguar S-Type from the same year as they have basically the same engine ?
Comment by:
Lynn
8/30/2011
5:57 PM
2005 Mercury Mariner! There's no compression getting to my engine. I have had it towed to two different places, one thought it was the timing chain, so did the other. The place that it's being held at has replaced the timing chain, spark plug and pistons (just underneath the timing chain and to the right of the engine block) The problem is when I put the key in the ignition and turn it, it turns over, but it sounds like it's over running, which is the reason why everyone thought it was time timing chain. PLEASE PLEASE help. I'm hoping that this is a minor problem. Thank You!
Comment by:
tom
8/29/2011
6:33 AM
02 taurus se 3.0 engine lite on p1336-replaced both cam/crank/sensor. 4 miles lite on again. 1 piston up tdc syncro off maybe 1/4 turn runs fine maybe turn syncro shaft alittle will lite maybe go out for good
Comment by:
terry holmes
8/28/2011
11:08 PM
oil pump and shaft are fine, had them both out already, but not pumping any oil to the top end,even the oil filter is bone dry, screen and pickup are also fine, has to be a pressure relief valve or blockage, not sure where the valve is located. or the oil pathing from the pump to try to find a blockage
Comment by:
Larry Carley
8/28/2011
8:54 PM
For Terry: If the engine is not getting any oil but the pump is good, it's possible the intermediate shaft that drives the oil pump is not turning (sheared or broken tip), or the oil pump pickup tube or screen are plugged, or the pickup is mounted too high in the oil pan to pick up any oil.
Comment by:
terry holmes
8/28/2011
4:01 PM
i have a 98 ford taurus, wont send oil to the oil filter, pulled the timing cover today , its bone dry, pulled the oil pump, put a electric drill on the shaft, shot oil outa a bucket 15' high, i need to know the oil pathing internaly and would like to know if a 2002 taurus block is interchangable with this one incase i cant find the problem,
Comment by:
Larry Carley
8/25/2011
7:03 PM
For Cookie Man: See this article I wrote on Ford Lean codes.



http://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_lean_codes.htm



Comment by:
Cookie Man
8/25/2011
1:05 PM
Have 97 Sable with the 6 cyl Duratec DOHC. Just started showing P0171 and P0174 lean codes. If the MAF is dirty/bad, can that cause downstream P0402,P1401 EGR "too lean" issues?
Comment by:
jay
8/23/2011
1:37 PM
had a bad valve on cylinder no. 5 on a 2001 ford escape with about 130000 miles. mechanic couldn't figure out how to get it back in time, so I took the vehicle to a ford dealership to get that done and they have been trying for ten days to get the timing right. how long should this take a ford service technitian to complete from start to finish?
Comment by:
JOE SMITH
8/22/2011
12:18 AM
I have a 98 sable wagon 3.0 24v v6 DOHC the timing chain is loose and cranks but won't start manic said some tubs are pluged and i lost oil presure to the tensioner is that right or is it something else should I replace the motor or can it be fixed
Comment by:
Ezequiel Castillo
8/20/2011
11:58 PM
01 mpv with 2.5 dohc replaced head gaskets now it wont start turns over ,checked spark ok, fuel ok owner say last time he had computer flashed how would i go on by how to flash the computer again i notice check eng. light not working checked bulb ok, i have voltage to it but still no light put scanner to retrive codes but no codes in stuck here in Panama with little parts to check with have to order parts from USA, need some help can some one please a helping hand thanks Ezeke`s
Comment by:
Larry Carley
8/16/2011
5:16 PM
Somebody forgot to reset the oil service reminder light on your 2007 Escape:



1. Press the SET control to access the system check function.



2. Press and release the SET control to display "OIL CHNG XXX% HOLD SET NEW".



3. Press and hold the SET control for 2 seconds to display "OIL CHANGE SET TO 100%".
Comment by:
Onyeachusim Vitus
8/16/2011
10:29 AM
I have 2007 ford escape limited 3.0 L engine,showing on the dash board that oil change required.The oil change has been done but it still remain.What is the likely cause ?
Comment by:
Normand
8/9/2011
6:24 AM
I have a 2000 Ford Ranger with the 3.0 liter v6. It just blew the radiator and now it wont start. It has spark and fuel is getting into combustion chamber. What could cause this? Head Gasket, cracked block, warped head? I checked and the oil looks ok, no water and not milky.
Comment by:
erika williams
8/6/2011
12:40 PM
does the 2005 ford five hundred SEL have the same throttle body as the 2005 ford Taurus SEL?
Comment by:
ralph hilbert
7/18/2011
2:06 PM
05 escape with 3.0will not restart when hot.not hearing the engine cooling fans come on when the ac is turned on.
Comment by:
Jaime
6/23/2011
10:47 PM
I have a 2003 Mazda6 3.0 can I use the engine from a ford Fusion 3.0 2010 are this the same engines.
Comment by:
mark
6/23/2011
12:51 AM
I have a 1997 Taurus 3.0 v6. Can I put that engine in a 2004 Mazda 6? What vehicles will fit that engine?
Comment by:
joe sutton
6/11/2011
1:04 AM
I have a 03 taurus 3.0,2valve 180,000 miles. engin wouldnt start,pulled the 3 front plugs and looks like coolent is leaking from one cylinder when i cranked it with out the plugs out? thinking a head gasket or intake?? what are your thoughts?
Comment by:
Darrell
6/4/2011
12:08 PM
I have a 1997 3.0 taurus and all the coolant is pouring out of the backside of the engine by the firewall.freeze plugs look good,Its super rusty looking and dumps as fast as i fill anyone have some advice for me for something to check? Thanks a bunch
Comment by:
Javk Hottle
5/27/2011
11:03 AM
I have a 2002 Mazda tribute LS with 3.0L engine I need the part number for the "plastic engine cover" the dealer can not find it they can find it for the Escape but not for the Tribune. Please help if you can. please resopnd to e mail address. Thanks
Comment by:
Steve Fabian
5/27/2011
10:42 AM
comment for Graham I have an 04 escape with the same problem. It runs great but has a metallic knock, sounds like top half of the engine. I changed the tensioner on the left looking at the front of engine, no help. It almost sounds like valve noise coming through the intake, its hard to pinpoint where its coming from
Comment by:
donna williams
5/25/2011
3:18 PM
Hi I have a 2004 lincoln ls.Sometimes when i turn the heat on or a/c on i smell something burning/also i hear a bang sometimes when i apply the brakes although they don't need replacing thanks!
Comment by:
Blackjack
5/9/2011
7:59 PM
Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the exhaust cam driven waterpump 3.0L and the intake cam driven water pump 3.0L - (aside from the obvious of course)in a 2006 escape?
Comment by:
Jack
5/1/2011
4:13 PM
hi larry we are working on a 3.0 mazda MPV 2002 that had excesive temp due to too much fuel burnout, we changed fuel injectors, head gaskets but #4and #6 not firing. sparkplugs coils compression all OK.
Comment by:
maverick
4/21/2011
11:43 AM
a friends ac comp locked up we cut old belt wound up tensioner put belt around water pump -with grooved side rubbing smooth pulley!

marked the length then went and got shorter belt put it on and it works fine alt and ps working water pump turning with no noise or slipping however, thinking about it now the water pump is probably turning the opposite direction its a beater type work car with a duratech motor 1999 taurus wagon has anyone else tried this will waterpump cavitate? just trying to buy a little time till compressor becomes available
Comment by:
Graham
4/16/2011
5:11 PM
I have a 2001 Escape with the 3.0L. I bought it because it had engine noise. It was erratic and too high pitched to be bottom end so I tracked it down to be the right timing chain being excessively loose. I replaced both chains, started it back up and the noise is still there and the right chain is still loose.



Next, I replaced the right hydraulic tensioner, tensioner arm, and guide so now all parts for the timing on the right side are brand new. I just started it up last night and the noise is still there.



The engine has 80,000 miles, and it runs just as smooth as if it were brand new. There is no miss or other problems that would lead me to believe that there are other underlying issues. The left chain is tight and makes no noise.



Please help!!!
Comment by:
Tom
4/10/2011
11:06 AM
Hello,

I have a 2002 ford escape V-6. I am getting an oil burn smell through the air vent. Where could this leak be coming from? I had a oil pan gasket leak which I repaired already. When I look under the vehicle, I notice the Two A/C bolds that hold the compressor have drips of oil coming off of them, however I cannot locate a leak beyound that area. Have any ideas? And, how bad is this?
Comment by:
Roodal Singh
4/8/2011
1:34 PM
My car overheats the water dissipates in 10 mins. while driving & overheats and shuts down. Is it the water pump thermostat or fan. Tell me
Comment by:
gary f
4/7/2011
9:36 PM
thanks larry i will do that i use now 5-30 mobile 5000 do u think the head gasket is starting to fail thanks
Comment by:
Larry Carley
4/7/2011
9:07 PM
For Gary: Oil seals can leak on any engine. I would recommend switching to a motor oil that is specially formulated for higher mileage engines the next time you change oil. Valvoline Max Life is one such product. Castrol, Mobil and Quaker State also have high mielage motor oils. These products contain seal conditioners that help seals swell slightly to reduce leaks.
Comment by:
gary f
4/7/2011
8:43 PM
i have a 01 merc sable with a 3.0 single cam motor is it common for the rear head to seap a little oil and if it does will it hurt anything been this way for 20k miles or so runs great and does NOT use oil
Comment by:
jon
3/31/2011
3:07 PM
I had my 2002 ford escape 3.0 v6 dual overhead cam engine service and then took a trip to california. I drove 400+ miles when the engine lost power and just stopped. It would not start so I had it towed. When checked the next day it fired up for a sec then stopped, again would not start. The timing chain is very loose and will lift up when pulled at through the oil cap area. it appears that on the one side of the cam the timing chain tensioner arm is broken or the chain is not in the guide. Needless to say - I have been told that I will need to replace the engine because the valves and pistons have beat each other and there is major damage to the engine... can that be true? Do the valves and pistons meet at a point where they can hit and do internal damage? Why is there no metal to metal sounds? What do you think? I must say at this point the vehicle is still in California and I am in Arizona, but I will have it home in the next week or so. I figured I would just tear it apart and rebuild what needs to be rebuilt?
Comment by:
miroslav
3/31/2011
3:42 AM
hi there,i am mercury mariner luxury edition 2006 owner,my camshaft and cylinder are going bad because of crash/need to be changed/,the original engine inside car is Duratec 30 V6,am living in europe so its very expensive to get that two parts from that one,i was wondering if i can use camshaft and cylinder head from the Duratec 25 V6 which they put inside ford mondeos from 1994.2000,i found just one diference-cylinder bores D25v6 (82,4mm) and D30 V6 (89)

please let me know

thank you very much!

M
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/24/2011
7:11 PM
For Chris: the Mazda and Ford 3.0L engines are mechanically the same but the emissions calibration is probably different. A swap may not work with the original PCM and wiring harness.
Comment by:
chris
3/24/2011
6:37 PM
i got a 2002 mazda tribute with a 3.0 and i was wondering if a ford ranger 3.0 will work in it
Comment by:
will
3/21/2011
6:20 PM
I have a 2001 escape 3.0 165K It has a miss #2 and a engine clatter that comes and goes.

Sound like valve train. flushed and Changed oil and no change in the noise. Has new plugs snd intake gasket so I am going to replace the coil. Any ideas on the noise
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/20/2011
6:02 PM
For Kris: Could be an air or vacuum leak somewhere in the intake plumbing or manifold. Take your Escape to a shop that has a smoke machine and have them check for leaks.
Comment by:
Kris
3/19/2011
2:18 PM
I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0, V6; and it's making a humming noise and idles rough (sometimes), in drive, at idle(usually at a stop light), from the air filter/throttle area. I changed the IAC sensor but its still making the noise and shacking. Code reader registers nothing. Any ideas?
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/18/2011
10:18 AM
For SoNic: The thermostat is inside a housing where the upper radiator hose attaches to the engine.
Comment by:
SoNic
3/17/2011
10:05 PM
Does anybody know where is located the thermostat on a V6 3.0L 1996 Mercury Sable?
Comment by:
Kendrict White
3/15/2011
9:39 PM
Thanks Larry. Had the tech pressure test the cooling system and pressure held at 15 for almost an hour. He replaced the thermostat and water pump. It no longer overheats, but now it hesitates while driving and shuts off while I'm at a stop light. I know its an old car, but it has NEVER shut off mid-trip before having the work done today. (Plus, it still leaks coolant)
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/15/2011
11:41 AM
For Chris: If you have a compression misfire, you probably have a bad exhaust valve. That means pulling the head and getting a valve job. The cost will depend on the condition of the valves, seats and valve guides. Not a cheap fix any way you look at it as it requires a lot of labor and machine work.
Comment by:
Chris Macedo
3/15/2011
12:55 AM
Hi Larry, I did a compression check and lost one of my cylinder on my engine which explains the miss fire. How bad you think the damage is? I didn't over heat the engine. Thanks
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/14/2011
12:48 PM
For Kendrick: I would recommend pressure testing the cooling system to see if you have a leaking head gasket.
Comment by:
Kendrict White
3/14/2011
11:51 AM
I have a 1998 Taurus with cooling system problem. The lower coolant pipe is rusty and leaking. I procrastinated for about 3 weeks, simply pouring new coolant in the reservoir every few days whenever the 'low coolant' lamp would light up. I also noticed the heat stopped working, so I figured the thermostat was going. The other day, it started overheating. The reservoir never boiled over and there were no physical signs of overheating (smoke, etc). But the temp gauge reached past 'H'. I'm about to flush the system and have the lower coolant pipe and thermostat changed. Just checking, is there anything I could be missing? I'd like to know before I put money into what I THINK the issue is. Any feedback would be helpful.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/14/2011
9:57 AM
For Chris: It sounds like your problem is lean misfire, not ignition misfire. Lean misfire can be caused by vacuum leaks, a leaky EGR valve, dirty fuel injectors, low fuel pressure or even a dirty or defective MAF sensor. Sounds like you need professional help.
Comment by:
Chris Macedo
3/13/2011
11:19 PM
Hi I have a 2003 ford ranger 3.0 v6 that has a bad miss fire I change the plugs, wires and coil pack and it still runs rough. It does have active codes miss fire cylinder 6 and engine miss fire at 1000 rpm. Can somebody please help?
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/12/2011
10:09 AM
FOr Bruce: It might be a bad crank sensor. I had the exact same problem with my daughter's Saturn a number of years ago. Car would start and run fine, but would not restart hot until it cooled down. Thought it was a bad ignition module, replaced it for $165, didn't fix it. Replaced the crank sensor for $15, problem went away.
Comment by:
bruce l. shenkel
3/12/2011
10:01 AM
hello ,my stepson has a 2004 ford taurus,and yesterday he called me and said car wont start starter motor rolls it over . had it towed to a reputable mech. .still working on it today they think its a sensor of some kind . they got it started .fuel pressure ok .no missfireing plugs when running ,but when it gets to operating temp ,it shuts down ,strange .i thought it could be the crankshaft positiong sensor getting hot and failing .there still working on it .just curious as to what it could be .i'm a mechanic but since retired and have no diagnostic equipment for testing . what do you think it is thanks. it has the ohv vulcan v6 thank you

bruce l. shenkel from port clinton, ohio
Comment by:
Lonnie
3/9/2011
6:39 PM
I just replaced timing chains in an 02 taurus 3.0 24 valve DOHC.I had no clue on how to do it but the diagram and instuctions up above guided me through a long and uncomplicated process.If you can read and understand the instuctions anybody can do it!!!
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/8/2011
6:02 PM
For Ashton: The screeching noise is probably the serpentine belt, or possibly a bad bearing on one of the belt pullies. Better have somebody check the belt and automatic tensioner. If you need more info on belt tensioners, see this article:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/belt_tensioners.htm

Comment by:
Ashton
3/8/2011
4:01 PM
I have an '03 Ranger w/ 3.0L. Screeching noise coming from front area (i think) of engine but only with RPM's at 1500+. Gets louder with higher RPM. At idle, the noise isn't noticeable. Per other direction I got, I checked and replaced the air filter & checked IAC Valve to make sure it was clean. Some folks thought it was an air intake issue. Sounds like a metal to metal noise possibly though. Any direction on what else to check would be greatly appreciated. Engine has 63k miles.
Comment by:
Debra Ewing
3/5/2011
5:05 PM
2001 ford escape 4.0 has week spark on no.6 plug,replaced coil ,plugs any ideas ,new map sensor also
Comment by:
Larry Carley
3/3/2011
9:12 AM
For Charlie: Chances are the head gasket was bad to begin with. That's what caused the pressure to build up inside the cooling system.
Comment by:
charlie
3/2/2011
6:29 PM
new radadior, sensior and housing ,thermostat ,water pump all new and to much pressure from engine it blowed water back threw radatorand resivior help some one please 1999 ford ranger 3.0 /6cyl and all this it blew a head casket or cracked it



Comment by:
Adam Popovich
2/21/2011
12:55 PM
I am trying to help a friend with a 99 Taurus with this motor. He says the engine just shut off on him while he was passing someone on the highway, at approx. 70MPH. He said it wasn't like seized motor, which typically loses power and then dies. He says it was just as if someone reached over and turned the car off. After that, no start. It gets about 1/2 of one sloooow rotation o when you crank it, then refuses to turn any further - even when turning over manually with a socket on the crank pulley. New starter and battery, still only 1/2 a crank then it stops. Pulled out plugs 4, 5, and 6 since they were easily accessible and still the crank won't budge. You can turn it counter-clockwise but it hits a brick wall at the same point every time going back the other way. It's not totally seized, but certainly stuck. Does this sound like a timing/interference issue? Could there be piston/valve contact causing the engine to turn then bind? We spent the better part of the day yesterday trying to figure this out and still aren't any further than when we started. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated, he really can't afford another car payment right now.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
2/20/2011
10:03 PM
Leaky intake manifold gasket?
Comment by:
James Horn
2/20/2011
9:47 AM
I have a 99 Mazda 3.0 that I replaced the heads on and now that I have it back together the engine blows oil out somewhere on the driver side of the engine and it also shows signs of oil getting into the throttle body. What would cause this to happen?
Comment by:
Larry Carley
2/14/2011
10:02 AM
For Misty: Sounds like the Crankcase Ventilation Hose to me. It's part of your engine's PCV system.
Comment by:
misty
2/13/2011
11:14 PM
I have a 01 Ford Taurus with the 3.0L v6. there is a rubber piece that attaches to the side of the valve cover with a hose that runs down into the motor...it is leaking air which is causing my car to bog down...what is this part? I can't find it anywhere.
Comment by:
JB
2/13/2011
5:06 PM
Have a 2002 with a Duratec 30 3.0 in it. Most of the plastic coolant parts have been breaking down and breaking. These I have replaced. Lately had to change the water pump but I seem to have alot of water in the base. I'm figureing on the most likely problems of a blown head gasket or a cracked head or block. Thing is the motor runs fine like there is no problem at all. Is there anything else that could be causing this water in the oil on this motor?
Comment by:
Larry Carley
2/5/2011
11:23 AM
For Rich: Your engine either has no spark or no fuel. Could be any of a number ofr things: maybe a bad fuel pump, maybe a bad crank sensor. No way to guess. You need to take your car to a shop and have it diagnosed.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
2/5/2011
11:22 AM
For Scott: You need to take your car to a shop. You have multiple problems. You have lean codes, catalyst codes, and possibly a leak in your heater core. A "For Sale" sign on the windshield will cost you a lot less than what the repairs will end up costing you!
Comment by:
Rich
2/4/2011
8:11 PM
I have a 2000 Merc Sable with the Duratec 3 liter. Was running fine on the way home from work. Half hr. later started car, drove around the corner, engine started sputtering then shut down. It tried to start twice after that now it just cranks away with no ignition. Plenty of fresh fuel in tank. Any ideas?
Comment by:
Scott Stagner
2/4/2011
7:06 PM
Have a 2007 Taurus with 157000 mile several errors p0171 p0174 p0420 p0430 . I do smell antifreeze when heat is on. Please assist in where I should start

Comment by:
Juan Soto
1/30/2011
1:19 PM
I have a 2006 mercury milan and need to replace the water pump, the only problem is that I can not remove the pulley from the camshaft that rotataes the water pump and it is in the way.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
1/29/2011
11:39 AM
For Mirriam: If your engine has misfire codes for cylinders #1 and #2, the misfires could be caused by an intake manifold vacuum leak, fouled or worn spark plugs, dirty fuel injectors, or maybe loss of compression due to valve wear or burning. You need more diagnostic work to determine the cause.
Comment by:
mirriam bingaman
1/29/2011
12:39 AM
my engine lights on my2001ford escape v6 4+4 the guy said it says on the comuter 1&2 cylinder is misfireing please tell me what it might be thanks
Comment by:
STEVE
1/27/2011
12:57 AM
LARRY THANKS FOR YOUR INPUTS. IT HELPED .

P0106 CODE- WHERE IS A MAP SENSOR ON

05 F.HUNDRED ? I CAN NOT LOCATE IT . DOES IT HAVE A MAP SENSOR ? OR IS IT RUNNING ON MAF ? CAN YOU
Comment by:
Larry Carley
1/26/2011
1:14 PM
For Jerry: Rather than replace any more parts unnecessarily, why not have your Ford towed to a repair shop so a professional can diagnose it for you? No spark tells me there is probably a fault in the ignition circuit, like maybe a bad crankshaft position sensor. But it could be something else.
Comment by:
Jerry Crofutt
1/26/2011
2:48 AM
i have a 94 ford ranger xlt 3.0l 5 spd 2wd im getting no spark and i have fuel pressure and i have fuel in the fuel rail i changed the ecm and i swithched the fuel relay fuse with the ac fuse cause i dont have ac and it ran for a day and then died now i have no spark at all and i have fuel pressure and i changed the ecm ,spark plugs and wires and now ive been with out a vechile for over three months any advice would be much appreciated thanks
Comment by:
michael
1/17/2011
11:37 AM
hi larry i am working on a 3.0 mazda tribute 2002 i chanced head gaskets i followed the chain installition in manual however #4and #6 not firing.i checked sparkplugs coils compression all checked good.when i killed #5 popping is heard in exhaust.can you help?
Comment by:
Brian Snider
1/14/2011
4:53 PM
I just today replaced the timing chains in a 2006 escape with the 3.0 V6 and found that the directions outlined in the ford manual was correct as far as setting the marks, however, the problem I found was that they were WRONG when it came to the reluctor wheel. It says to install the numbers 20-25 34Y-30 at the keyway when in fact you install it with the numbers "30RFF" at the keyway. Believe me it will not start if you do not do this the correct way.
Comment by:
charlie
1/9/2011
9:52 PM
ive got a 97 mercury sable with the 3.0 duratec making a horrid noise, its got a knock coming from around the middle front cylinder, it seems to be a bit higher pitched than a regular rod but im not sure so im thinking(hoping) for a collapsed lash adjuster, the bad part is that when you rev the engine its acompanied with a terrible screeching noise something like metal on metal but it doesnt show at idle. neither of these sounds is constant and even the knock seems to fade in and out of its own will. the engine will also loose power and die on its own at idle but can be started again, also it doesnt die when in gear but stopped. any ideas?
Comment by:
Ryan
1/7/2011
3:11 PM
im doing the heads on a 2002 taurus 3.0 dohc. now i have the timing marks on the chains and they are aligned with the cams. mitchel is confusing the hell out of me. i put the #1 cylinder at TDC and just put the chain on with all the slack on the tensioner side, then turn the crankshaft to 3'oclock and just slip the chain on? this is sort of confusing. if there is no tdc mark to align the chains, i can just put the chains around the crankshaft at 11 o clock and 3 o clock and thats it im done? this doesnt seem to be a legitimate way of doing this.for something that needs to be exact to prevent engine damage this is more like guess work. but is that how its done? or am i missing something?
Comment by:
Mike B.
1/5/2011
7:43 AM
I have a Ford 2002 Escape 3.0L V6 that has an oil leak above or near the left rear spark plug. It leaks down onto exhaust system. I know its near plug because when I changed plugs recently, that one came out covered in wet oil (outside). Where can I find a diagram of the upper engine so I can begin to locate the source of the leak? Does anyone know what lies above/near the are that might be the source of the leak? Thanks much!!

PS: I'm looking for a free source of information rather than a subscription site.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
12/30/2010
8:21 PM
For Kevin: You can find Fod firing orders here:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/ford_firing_orders.htm
Comment by:
kevin
12/29/2010
10:50 PM
Working on a 2005 ford escape. Where could I find a diagram that show the firing order and which coils are which number
Comment by:
Don
12/19/2010
4:59 PM
Could some-one please tell me if the 2001 ford escape 3.0 litre V6 the same engine as a 2005 V6 3.0 litre from a ford escape. the motor in the 2001 is shot wondering if the 2005 will bolt right up thanks.
Comment by:
Randy Jones
11/29/2010
6:50 PM
computer code indicates cam position sensor. 36080 miles, dealer says cam caps to be replaced, then cam to be replaced. Once installed, enging locks. Ford sends new factory engine. Once installed, engine locks upon starting. Thoughts???
Comment by:
Eugene Smith
11/12/2010
2:43 PM
I'm trying to change the rear plugs in 2002 6 cyl Duratec. Would appreciate some help. How to remove the tubes covering the three plugs.
Comment by:
Eugene Smith
11/12/2010
2:43 PM
I'm trying to change the rear plugs in 2002 6 cyl Duratec. Would appreciate some help. How to remove the tubes covering the three plugs.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
11/6/2010
10:27 AM
For Mark: The engine is made by Ford. Here is a link to an article we did in our Engine Builder magazine on the 3.0L engine:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/1142/rebuilding_the_ford_30l.aspx

Comment by:
mark
11/5/2010
11:02 PM
Hi Larry Mark with the 04 jag x type 3.0. I took it to a ford dealer. they had it 2 days & told me they dont work on the jag motors. said they think its a flywheel or torque convertor making the noise & charged me $150 for guessing.Is this a ford motor or not? ford doesnt work on motors that are in their cars? or am I reading your article wrong? anyone can guess. I brought it there because u said to take it to a shop. they also said they wouldnt pull the trans either.this is a big ford dealer too. If any thing can you at least tell me is this a ford motor? where do people take their ford cars with this motor in? thanks Larry.
Comment by:
Dave J
11/5/2010
9:59 AM
i have a V6 4x4 2005 Escape. The engine misfires or hesitates @4000RPM. Drinks gas like a fish. Any idea? I heard it could be coil problems or spark plug wires
Comment by:
Steve
11/2/2010
11:46 AM
I have an 2006 freestyle 3.0L I have a coolant leak somewhere on the front passenger side, radiator looks dry so does the lower hose. Where else could a leak develop on the lower front of the engine. It is wet in the AC compressor area. the liquid is an light orange in color.

thanks

Steve
Comment by:
Larry Carley
11/1/2010
10:53 AM
It could be timing chain noise caused byu a bad chain tensioner. My advice is take it to a shop or dealer for diagnosis & repair as replacing the timing chains on this engine is NOT a job for a do-it-yourselfer.
Comment by:
Mark
10/31/2010
10:28 PM
Hello Larry! 04 jag x type 3.0 has loud rattle above idle. no rattle under load(brake stand)62000 miles. took belt off water pump it stopped at first put belt back on it rattled & also back fired at first. could this be timing chains causing this rattle? what to do next to narrow this down, besides take it to a shop. 50 miles on oil but oil looks dirty to me.Thanks
Comment by:
angie sherman
10/30/2010
2:13 PM
have a 1999 Ford Taurus,24valve dual overhead cam, Duratec motor;120+ thousand miles;how do you know if the heads are blown?
Comment by:
Dietmar Tovenrath
10/28/2010
1:51 AM
I have Ford 3.0L V6 and like to know how to set the valve clearances and in what sequence please.
Comment by:
Larry Carley
10/14/2010
7:57 PM
For Victor: See the cam alignment illustration above. The problem is not so much aligning the cams as it is aligning the cams to the crankshaft (which has no timing mark). A dial indicator inserted through the spark plug hole in cylinder #1 is needed to find top dead center. Once that has been established, the cams can be timed to the crank. Tell your mechanic he needs to study up on the repair procedures before he tears an engine apart!
Comment by:
VICTOR
10/14/2010
5:41 PM
my mechanic removed the VTC on a 2002 s type 4.0 with out the cam alignment tool! now the cam is advanced. i know it should have been taken apart with the cam alignment tool to secure it in place. so the question is. How do i find the correct position for the VTC? or how do i get the VTC internally aligned again?
Comment by:
cory
10/10/2010
10:10 AM
I also have misfire on cyl.#5 found no compression due to leaking exhaust valves. I've been told by ford service tech that plugged cat. converters can cause this.
Comment by:
Rich & JD
9/28/2010
12:39 PM
1998 3.0L with problems of lock up,with the problem of the cam synchronizer and did ford fix this and when if you please.Thanks
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